Rethinking the Bra

Developing a completely new type of textile structure to create the perfect bra

The project

Developing a completely new type of textile structure using cuttingedge 3D knitting technology to create the perfect bra without the traditional underwire structure.

THE CHALLENGE
The traditional underwired bra can be uncomfortable and is not designed with the wearer in mind. Women are shifting to use comfortable yoga tops and bralettes, but these do not offer enough support or breathability. Women of a larger cup size particularly, are forced to sacrifice between comfort, support, and style.

THE SOLUTION
The partners are researching the needs of women by analysing the market, competitors and needs, creating a community of women that provide suggestions and opinions in a collaborative way.
The results will combine, for the first time in a bra using cutting-edge 3D knitting technology with sustainable materials, the project intends to innovate the bra’s structure using seamless technology, adapting it to the user to create a an extremely comfortable, breathable and sustainable bra without the traditional underwire structure.

RETHINKING THE BRA (United Kingdom)

Rethinking the Bra is the goal of a team of three women who are on a mission to revolutionise bras. Essi is a service designer, researcher, and strategist, Stefanie is a body wear designer and empowerment coach, Giulia is an interaction designer specialising in women’s healthcare and e-textiles.

HOC LAB TECH SRL (Italy)

HOC LAB TECH is an innovation for footwear and textile development. It has been working since 2017, providing expertise in material development, design and innovation for different industries.

STORYTELLING

THE IDEA:

Rethinking The Bra was born out of the frustration of the existing bra market. Rethinking The Bra is developing an innovative 3D knitted wire-free bra structure for larger cup sizes (C+) that is comfortable, supportive and stylish. 

THE BIRTH OF THE PROJECT:

Women spend most of their time wearing a bra, which ought to be the most comfortable item they own. All women* need a garment that is comfortable, supportive and breathable, including females with bigger cup sizes. After years of longing for a better solution, Essi (User Researcher) contacted Giulia (Material researcher for female’s health) and Steff (Underwear specialist) to develop the revolutionary bra.

THE CREATIVE PROCESS:

To get a better understanding of what this might look like, Rethinking The Bra conducted interviews and created focus groups with females around Europe to co-design the ideal and comfortable daily bra with no wire. This in-depth analysis was used to create a pattern, holding a solution that so many women* are longing for. During this creative development process, Rethinking The Bra realised the restrictions of traditional bra making. 3D knitting started to interest Rethinking The Bra as it allows the development of garments that will create support and comfort without the need for a metal underwire. With hardly any seams, this is good news for those who find traditional bras uncomfortable. This technology opens the door for a new revolution within the bra industry. As a European team working in a pandemic, the collaboration had to be fully remote. The project is a collaboration of 5 European countries. In the UK the pattern has been developed by Steff. In Spain Jordi translated this into the 3D knitting software and in Italy HOC made the prototype. In January, the prototype has been sent to Finland to fit and shoot, while the music has been recorded in Malta. Finally, the video has been added in Germany. To allow the team to stay on top of the project weekly meetings and a tight work schedule have been introduced. The plan was to work intensively together, but in the end, half of our team never met face to face. 

THE COLLABORATION:

Thanks to the Worth Project, the past eight months gave the team the opportunity to co-develop their first working prototype. Rethinking The Bra entered a collaboration with Jordi & HOC, specialists in 3D knitting technology, to create the bra that women* are longing for. Jordi successfully created the pattern on 3D knitting software for HOC. HOC used their cutting edge 3D knitting technology to co-design prototypes to give women* the support they are longing for. 

THE FUTURE:

RTB & HOC have plans to continue co-developing the prototype onto the next level. After working intensively on the pattern, we will next move onto researching materials in more depth. We’ve learnt from our community of women that they would like their ideal bra to be made out of sustainably produced natural materials that are soft and breathable. Our interest is to next explore the use of natural fibres like bamboo, cotton and linen in the context of 3D knitting and lingerie.

THE MESSAGE:

Rethinking The Bra understands the frustration of women* who deserve a garment which is comfortable, supportive and breathable, including for females with bigger cup sizes. Rethinking The Bra is developing a bra that fulfils all the criteria of what women* are looking for.

 

PARTNERSHIP PROJECTS

The vase

The vase

Lumimóza

Lumimóza

3D metal panels

3D metal panels

Thinking Woman’s Chair

Thinking Woman’s Chair

Aeras-x Seat for Drone Taxis

Aeras-x Seat for Drone Taxis

The Vegan Sheep

The Vegan Sheep

Loom-State

Loom-State

Common Sands 2.0

Common Sands 2.0

Maretech

Maretech

Minois

Minois

STEM a garment production brand

STEM a garment production brand

Storytelling Garment Project

Storytelling Garment Project

Mapu Preto

Mapu Preto

Minta

Minta

NO/thing

NO/thing

Modifiable Vegan Bag Collection

Modifiable Vegan Bag Collection

In the Circle

In the Circle

Clotho

Clotho

Make Your Bed

Make Your Bed

Vibro-Tactile Textiles

Vibro-Tactile Textiles

LÈBIU – let’s CORK it

LÈBIU – let’s CORK it

WeAr Design

WeAr Design

Freskos

Freskos

ALMA

ALMA

Bubble Façade

Bubble Façade

Crossing Parallels

Crossing Parallels

EnaOna

EnaOna

SEISMIC GARMENT

SEISMIC GARMENT

Rethinking the Bra

Rethinking the Bra

Kinematic handbag by RMATURA

Kinematic handbag by RMATURA

Nova Underwear

Nova Underwear

BioChromatic

BioChromatic

Dimmenso

Dimmenso

Beaggie

Beaggie

Ignorance is Bliss Carpet Collection

Ignorance is Bliss Carpet Collection

WE ARE NOT IN THIS ALONE

WE ARE NOT IN THIS ALONE

H|H

H|H

Vibrant-barrier-free glassware collection

Vibrant-barrier-free glassware collection

Edge Chair

Edge Chair

Marbled Salts

Marbled Salts

Moseanic

Moseanic

Kombucha TSUGI

Kombucha TSUGI

LiLO

LiLO

The Eastern Side of Riviera

The Eastern Side of Riviera

Future Wardrobe

Future Wardrobe

Ventri

Ventri

FreyZein

FreyZein

SILENCIO

SILENCIO

Re-Print Ceramics

Re-Print Ceramics

Vivid

Vivid

A Phyne Bomber Jacket

A Phyne Bomber Jacket

Burning For

Burning For

Circular workwear collection

Circular workwear collection

Recontile

Recontile

Fashion Colada

Fashion Colada

SCALA

SCALA

New Matters

New Matters

Not 2 Forget

Not 2 Forget

Agogic – Be prepared for more

Agogic – Be prepared for more

SMARTCOAT with ETHICS

SMARTCOAT with ETHICS

Mocha Split

Mocha Split

Reframd

Reframd

Zerobarracento

Zerobarracento

ALLCA Disruptive Rugs

ALLCA Disruptive Rugs

Wearable Play

Wearable Play

Wear-Abouts Baltic Sea

Wear-Abouts Baltic Sea

Gelatex x NO/AN

Gelatex x NO/AN

Luxury Bag Collection

Luxury Bag Collection

Amalgama

Amalgama

TTorch

TTorch

From the ground

From the ground

Biolea

Biolea

Ultra

Ultra

Capsule coat project

Capsule coat project

Mayya x WORTH

Mayya x WORTH

The Space in Between

The Space in Between

Rustic Wool Robotuft

Rustic Wool Robotuft

Cartiera & SwIdeas present: Change!

Cartiera & SwIdeas present: Change!

Fish_Fish

Fish_Fish

Common Sands

Common Sands

UCQC Inclusive

UCQC Inclusive

Gabriella Veszpremi X Inpelsa

Gabriella Veszpremi X Inpelsa

Mowo

Mowo

i-Morfé

i-Morfé

Iguaneye

Iguaneye

Ruumy

Ruumy

Fugazi Fugazi

Fugazi Fugazi

Serisole

Serisole

Hi-LAMP

Hi-LAMP

Lucid

Lucid

Senss

Senss

Walkytalkies

Walkytalkies

Sole sustainability

Sole sustainability

A Warm, Light, Luxurious, Sustainable Cloak

A Warm, Light, Luxurious, Sustainable Cloak

Spell My Name

Spell My Name

The “Bib” chair

The “Bib” chair

Materia Bruta

Materia Bruta

Planned Space Pooling

Planned Space Pooling

3D knitwear on demand

3D knitwear on demand

Lit Lace Interface

Lit Lace Interface

iluTex

iluTex

Sukka 

Sukka 

PineSkins Soft Wall Tiles

PineSkins Soft Wall Tiles

Unmoist Raincoat

Unmoist Raincoat

IOT Jacket & Robot

IOT Jacket & Robot

Stars Collection

Stars Collection

Words that shimmer

Words that shimmer

Persona

Persona

PULSAR

PULSAR

Identity 560

Identity 560

Øjenfryd

Øjenfryd

The Ghost Bag

The Ghost Bag

Diluci bags

Diluci bags

M2M furniture (Made 2 Measure Furniture)

M2M furniture (Made 2 Measure Furniture)

Myhand Prosthetic Socket

Myhand Prosthetic Socket

Oceanwear

Oceanwear

t-Studio – 3D fashion design network

t-Studio – 3D fashion design network

Curve

Curve

Multifunctional Textiles

Multifunctional Textiles

Fashion Designing in an Inclusive World

Fashion Designing in an Inclusive World

‘Parameter’ Table

‘Parameter’ Table

Occay

Occay

KICS

KICS

ERGOVI – healthy multiposture chair

ERGOVI – healthy multiposture chair

PreemieCme

PreemieCme

Circular Bags

Circular Bags

Clayer

Clayer

Lulu V2

Lulu V2

Fishskinlab

Fishskinlab

Dynaback

Dynaback

Esther Hates PVC

Esther Hates PVC

Gardin

Gardin

Foldable High Heels

Foldable High Heels

Sustainable Acoustic Panels

Sustainable Acoustic Panels

Edbora Collection

Edbora Collection

Smart Heated Vest

Smart Heated Vest

ACDL Artisan Chausseur Design Lab

ACDL Artisan Chausseur Design Lab

Smart Life Jacket In Watersport

Smart Life Jacket In Watersport

Fragments Garments

Fragments Garments

Hollow: A Lie Story

Hollow: A Lie Story

FWN: Family Wear Nature

FWN: Family Wear Nature

Himaero “The Emotional Jewel”

Himaero “The Emotional Jewel”

Spellbound

Spellbound

Wear Pure

Wear Pure

Connextyle

Connextyle

Unlimited in 1

Unlimited in 1

Paramatrix

Paramatrix

Feel More Knitwear

Feel More Knitwear

Skarabeos 2

Skarabeos 2

Twill

Twill

Fashionable Wearable Camera Accessory

Fashionable Wearable Camera Accessory

‘Margarete’ – Cork Task Chair

‘Margarete’ – Cork Task Chair