Loom-State

Loom-State: 3D Woven Garments

The project

Loom-State: 3D Woven Garments.

THE CHALLENGE
To make sustainability profitable, merging two separate industries, textiles and fashion, into one streamlined process that will reduce material waste and shorten supply chains.

THE SOLUTION
This project re-imagines how clothes are made by creating fully fashioned, seamless woven garments engineered on the loom rather than through a cut & sew manufacturing process, resulting in reduced material waste, resource usage, shortened supply chains and ultimately tackling sustainability. Access to industrial jacquard looms, CAD programs, and technicians will allow the designer to produce manufacture-ready prototypes and a system to duplicate the process. This project focuses on trousers at this stage. The project’s angle is to focus on scalability, efficiency and cost-effectiveness by using machines already in the industry.

GRAYSHA AUDREN (United Kingdom)

Graysha is a woven textile designer, with a background in fashion design, whose work focuses on rethinking systems for sustainable innovation.

Project website: weffan.co

EE EXCLUSIVES (The Netherlands)

EE-exclusives specialises in high-tech machines and expert craftsmanship to create woven products, using special 3D-weaving techniques. Their expertise consists of highly detailed jacquard fabrics in project-based quantities.

Project website: ee-exclusives.com

STORYTELLING

THE IDEA:

LoomState 3D Woven Garment has been an adventure years in the making. It started with the intention of finding solutions to the daunting environmental and economic impacts of the fashion industry by using design thinking applied to textile weaving. Starting from the premise that waste is just a design flaw, I looked at where textile weaving could limit waste and inefficiency to create economic incentives for sustainability.

The journey began with a dissertation on the lifecycle of a humble cotton T-shirt. Following the garment from the growing of the fibre, to manufacture, to the labor involved at each step, to the selling, all the way through to a t-shirt’s afterlife. It became clear that the fashion industry is an ecosystem of complex, opaque supply chains, unintended consequences, inefficiency, abuse, and waste. Any solution needed to consider the knock on effect to the whole fashion system. Around this time I went to the Textile Institute World Conference in Leeds, UK to see a demonstration of a state-of-the art Mageba 3D Weaving machine. There was something magical about being able to weave in multiple dimensions.

The ability to add another weft direction opened a whole new realm of possibilities for me. That’s when it clicked; mulit- layer weaving techniques could theoretically weave a fully fashioned garment in one go. Loom-State: 3D Woven Garments is inspired by the possibilities of new technology to sustainably optimise the way we produce clothes and to design out some of the most harmful effects on people, planet, and profit. Loom-State weaves the structure and form of a trouser using multi-layer techniques, creating a fully-fashioned garment in one step. No more cut & sew off-cut waste.

THE BIRTH OF THE PROJECT:

This project was fuelled by a frustration with the fashion industry’s flawed incentive structures, inefficient supply chains and entrenched processes that are hurting our planet, our people, and our companies. The industry’s outdated conventions of design, production, and consumption practices has become a leviathan that feels impossible to tame but we a duty to start somewhere. The current crisis we are living in just further proves we need systemic change. Complex supply chains have become fragile and vulnerable, demanding that we rethink the future of how goods and services are produced and move around our world. On a good year, long lead times mean the wrong items get produced only to end up in landfills because of slow adaptability to consumer demand. Complex global supply chains are not only inefficient, unsustainable, and exacerbate social and labour inequality, but in a crisis, are vulnerable to breakdown. The resulting interruption to manufacturing and retail from increased climate change and crisis events has a severe economic and social impact. A garment production system that allows for lower infrastructure costs, easy adoption, faster production times, and less waste, means we can start to localise our production chains because its cost effective to do so.

At the same time, the reduction in resource usage, transportation, overproduction, and waste throughout is good for the planet. Win – Win. In a traditional cut & sew manufacturing system, our clothes go through an overly complex web of supply chains, incorporating a whole network of suppliers, A fashion brand might think that they only have 1,000 to 2,000 suppliers. In reality, they have 20,000 to 50,000 when counting all the sub-suppliers. This makes it extremely difficult for brands to effectively map their supply chain because there are too many third parties involved. Bolts of fabric are made in one place, clothes are cut from a long piece of fabric creating cut-off waste using often exploited labor, garments are sewn by a complex conveyor belt of human labour and machines, to be sold in markets far from consumers and demand. Loom-State drastically simplifies manufacturing, shortens the supply chain, reduces the product time-to-market, lends itself to an agile made-to-order model or small-batch production cycle, and reduces overproduction and overstock. Loom-State requires less infrastructure and uses existing loom technology, which means it’s more cost effective to manufacture locally, around the consumer base, to reduce demand uncertainty. Loom- State simplifies the supply chain making full transparency possible.

THE CREATIVE PROCESS:

Loom-State began with research into whole garment weaving trousers. Engineering trousers on the loom seemed like a good place to start because solving for a trouser’s complex functional details, fit issues, and waistband closures would be key to structuring other garments down the line. The Loom-State trouser was developed in 2020 while quarantining on a ranch. There’s an irony to working on a project about automation, technology, and efficiency out in the middle of nowhere, where the wifi depends on the weather. The hard wearing clothes needed for the manual labor to run a ranch inspired the creative decisions. In taking a design direction with the trouser, there was something iconic about referencing a wardrobe staple like denim jeans with its workwear roots and design traditions.

The tension in exploring automation technology to produce garments that nod to work-wear produced interesting design outcomes. What does utility mean in an automated future? The Loom-State trouser has gone through various development iterations. With 3D woven garments, every design decision affects the whole prototype outcome. For example, just having a working pocket means taking the whole garment into consideration and creating a multi-layered engineered solution in the fabric weaving stage to accommodate for that design element. Form really does follow function in this case, because the form is literally interwoven with its function. It’s definitely a new and exciting way of looking at garment construction

THE COLLABORATION:

Loom-State partnered with EEexclusives, a leading Jacquard manufacturer to leverage their specialised Jacquard looms and technical skill on the project. EEexclusives translated the Loom-State research and development into a concept trouser, while allowing Loom-State the space to experiment and problem solve along the way.

THE FUTURE:

Loom-State’s scalable, functioning 3D woven trouser prototype, will provide the research foundation to expand to other garments, and ultimately an entire garment production system. Loom-State will grow the collection to basic styles of T-shirts, chemises, dresses, skirts, jackets, and coats. Ultimately, creating a catalogue of clothing with the capability to adjust for unique design features – from design silhouette, pocket shape and variation, to closures and finishing, to colour variation.

Loom-State ultimately hopes that it will encourage on demand production, and near-shoring with a circular business model. At every stage, this project commits itself to the positive outcomes for people, planet, profit. Currently Weffan Studios, the creator of Loom-State, is looking for investment to grow the team, produce the proof-of-concept, and develop a garment production system.

THE MESSAGE:

Collaboration within this project has been vital. Without the specialised skills and knowledge of the team, Loom-State wouldn’t have happened.

Loom-State 3D woven garments improve efficiency, transparency, and sustainability in clothing manufacturing.

 

PARTNERSHIP PROJECTS

The vase

The vase

Lumimóza

Lumimóza

3D metal panels

3D metal panels

Thinking Woman’s Chair

Thinking Woman’s Chair

Aeras-x Seat for Drone Taxis

Aeras-x Seat for Drone Taxis

The Vegan Sheep

The Vegan Sheep

Loom-State

Loom-State

Common Sands 2.0

Common Sands 2.0

Maretech

Maretech

Minois

Minois

STEM a garment production brand

STEM a garment production brand

Storytelling Garment Project

Storytelling Garment Project

Mapu Preto

Mapu Preto

Minta

Minta

NO/thing

NO/thing

Modifiable Vegan Bag Collection

Modifiable Vegan Bag Collection

In the Circle

In the Circle

Clotho

Clotho

Make Your Bed

Make Your Bed

Vibro-Tactile Textiles

Vibro-Tactile Textiles

LÈBIU – let’s CORK it

LÈBIU – let’s CORK it

WeAr Design

WeAr Design

Freskos

Freskos

ALMA

ALMA

Bubble Façade

Bubble Façade

Crossing Parallels

Crossing Parallels

EnaOna

EnaOna

SEISMIC GARMENT

SEISMIC GARMENT

Rethinking the Bra

Rethinking the Bra

Kinematic handbag by RMATURA

Kinematic handbag by RMATURA

Nova Underwear

Nova Underwear

BioChromatic

BioChromatic

Dimmenso

Dimmenso

Beaggie

Beaggie

Ignorance is Bliss Carpet Collection

Ignorance is Bliss Carpet Collection

WE ARE NOT IN THIS ALONE

WE ARE NOT IN THIS ALONE

H|H

H|H

Vibrant-barrier-free glassware collection

Vibrant-barrier-free glassware collection

Edge Chair

Edge Chair

Marbled Salts

Marbled Salts

Moseanic

Moseanic

Kombucha TSUGI

Kombucha TSUGI

LiLO

LiLO

The Eastern Side of Riviera

The Eastern Side of Riviera

Future Wardrobe

Future Wardrobe

Ventri

Ventri

FreyZein

FreyZein

SILENCIO

SILENCIO

Re-Print Ceramics

Re-Print Ceramics

Vivid

Vivid

A Phyne Bomber Jacket

A Phyne Bomber Jacket

Burning For

Burning For

Circular workwear collection

Circular workwear collection

Recontile

Recontile

Fashion Colada

Fashion Colada

SCALA

SCALA

New Matters

New Matters

Not 2 Forget

Not 2 Forget

Agogic – Be prepared for more

Agogic – Be prepared for more

SMARTCOAT with ETHICS

SMARTCOAT with ETHICS

Mocha Split

Mocha Split

Reframd

Reframd

Zerobarracento

Zerobarracento

ALLCA Disruptive Rugs

ALLCA Disruptive Rugs

Wearable Play

Wearable Play

Wear-Abouts Baltic Sea

Wear-Abouts Baltic Sea

Gelatex x NO/AN

Gelatex x NO/AN

Luxury Bag Collection

Luxury Bag Collection

Amalgama

Amalgama

TTorch

TTorch

From the ground

From the ground

Biolea

Biolea

Ultra

Ultra

Capsule coat project

Capsule coat project

Mayya x WORTH

Mayya x WORTH

The Space in Between

The Space in Between

Rustic Wool Robotuft

Rustic Wool Robotuft

Cartiera & SwIdeas present: Change!

Cartiera & SwIdeas present: Change!

Fish_Fish

Fish_Fish

Common Sands

Common Sands

UCQC Inclusive

UCQC Inclusive

Gabriella Veszpremi X Inpelsa

Gabriella Veszpremi X Inpelsa

Mowo

Mowo

i-Morfé

i-Morfé

Iguaneye

Iguaneye

Ruumy

Ruumy

Fugazi Fugazi

Fugazi Fugazi

Serisole

Serisole

Hi-LAMP

Hi-LAMP

Lucid

Lucid

Senss

Senss

Walkytalkies

Walkytalkies

Sole sustainability

Sole sustainability

A Warm, Light, Luxurious, Sustainable Cloak

A Warm, Light, Luxurious, Sustainable Cloak

Spell My Name

Spell My Name

The “Bib” chair

The “Bib” chair

Materia Bruta

Materia Bruta

Planned Space Pooling

Planned Space Pooling

3D knitwear on demand

3D knitwear on demand

Lit Lace Interface

Lit Lace Interface

iluTex

iluTex

Sukka 

Sukka 

PineSkins Soft Wall Tiles

PineSkins Soft Wall Tiles

Unmoist Raincoat

Unmoist Raincoat

IOT Jacket & Robot

IOT Jacket & Robot

Stars Collection

Stars Collection

Words that shimmer

Words that shimmer

Persona

Persona

PULSAR

PULSAR

Identity 560

Identity 560

Øjenfryd

Øjenfryd

The Ghost Bag

The Ghost Bag

Diluci bags

Diluci bags

M2M furniture (Made 2 Measure Furniture)

M2M furniture (Made 2 Measure Furniture)

Myhand Prosthetic Socket

Myhand Prosthetic Socket

Oceanwear

Oceanwear

t-Studio – 3D fashion design network

t-Studio – 3D fashion design network

Curve

Curve

Multifunctional Textiles

Multifunctional Textiles

Fashion Designing in an Inclusive World

Fashion Designing in an Inclusive World

‘Parameter’ Table

‘Parameter’ Table

Occay

Occay

KICS

KICS

ERGOVI – healthy multiposture chair

ERGOVI – healthy multiposture chair

PreemieCme

PreemieCme

Circular Bags

Circular Bags

Clayer

Clayer

Lulu V2

Lulu V2

Fishskinlab

Fishskinlab

Dynaback

Dynaback

Esther Hates PVC

Esther Hates PVC

Gardin

Gardin

Foldable High Heels

Foldable High Heels

Sustainable Acoustic Panels

Sustainable Acoustic Panels

Edbora Collection

Edbora Collection

Smart Heated Vest

Smart Heated Vest

ACDL Artisan Chausseur Design Lab

ACDL Artisan Chausseur Design Lab

Smart Life Jacket In Watersport

Smart Life Jacket In Watersport

Fragments Garments

Fragments Garments

Hollow: A Lie Story

Hollow: A Lie Story

FWN: Family Wear Nature

FWN: Family Wear Nature

Himaero “The Emotional Jewel”

Himaero “The Emotional Jewel”

Spellbound

Spellbound

Wear Pure

Wear Pure

Connextyle

Connextyle

Unlimited in 1

Unlimited in 1

Paramatrix

Paramatrix

Feel More Knitwear

Feel More Knitwear

Skarabeos 2

Skarabeos 2

Twill

Twill

Fashionable Wearable Camera Accessory

Fashionable Wearable Camera Accessory

‘Margarete’ – Cork Task Chair

‘Margarete’ – Cork Task Chair