H|H

The first 3-D designed Zero Waste Whole Garment collection

The project

The first 3-D designed Zero Waste Whole Garment collection.

THE CHALLENGE
Starting with the need to develop new technologies for textile and garment production for which the concept of waste becomes redundant, the textile industry needs to re-think its manufacturing workflow to be more sustainable and competitive.

THE SOLUTION
The innovation in the H|H Zero Waste Manufacturing System lies in the integration of two different textile technologies (customised spinning production and zero waste weaving technology) into one zero waste whole garment production process. This project aims at changing existing textile production infrastructures through a completely new design workflow.
HILO controls on-demand yarn quantity and qualities, McQuillan designs zero-waste garments directly off the loom. Both technologies address many of the problems of garment production and have the potential to provide new workflows for local micro-factories. The idea is to use software to translate digital patterns into different yarn thicknesses varying from very light to heavy.

STUDIO HILO (Germany)

Established in 2018, Studio HILO has been developing diverse open-source prototypes for digital spinning systems. Their software and hardware allow professionals to adapt industrial yarn productions to their needs, making production more local and flexible.

HOLLY MCQUILLAN (Sweden)

Holly McQuillan develops methods for designing garments that can be constructed in 2D and when cut become 3D articles of clothing.

STORYTELLING

THE IDEA:

Taking Studio Hilo’s innovative software and hardware system, and combining it with Holly McQuillan’s innovative research in whole garment weaving – The H||H collaboration explores the potential of developing new systems for woven textile-based form by building form from the fibre level up. Garments made this way are woven formed on the loom, using studio Hilo spin yarn that is engineered specifically for the functional and aesthetic requirements of the design. Once woven they only require cutting and a small amount of stitching – if any at all – for the exciting 3D form to be realised. This approach can revolutionise how we make 3D woven textile-based form, eliminating much of the manual labour currently required and enabling production to be localised to Europe.

THE BIRTH OF THE PROJECT:

Coming from her background as a zero waste designer, Holly’s research exploring whole garment weaving enables dynamic and changeable zero waste 3D form to be embedded into the weave structures themselves. However, she found that the unfolding of form when constructed this way resulted in variable or “fractional” density caused by the distribution of yarn over multiple layers. Sometimes this density difference was desired, but not always – so she was looking for a way to control the effect. Studio Hilo had been developing their yarn spinning machine and software which enables the on-demand spinning of yarn, based on greyscale images, to determine the thickness of the yarn over its length. When Holly discovered the innovative work that Studio Hilo was doing she saw the potential for it to solve her fractional density problem.

THE CREATIVE PROCESS:

We began by testing the Hilo yarn in an industrial jacquard loom at the Swedish School of Textiles – we needed to be sure that the variable Hilo yarn would be able to withstand the high tension and speed of industrial jacquard weaving. And it can! Next, we explored how to control the placement of the yarn as it weaves so it can strategically place the thicker and thinner sections of yarn in the areas we needed it to be. Then, as we all know, Coronavirus made collaborative research life much more difficult for everyone. Still, there was much we could continue to do. in Sweden, Holly developed the dress design to a high degree of resolution by utilising digital 3D tools such as CLO and what small scale sampling she could do at the Swedish School of Textiles. Meanwhile, in Berlin, Sara was developing a new version of the Hilo machine that could more easily spin at the speed, with a higher degree of precision, required for this work. We hoped, like everyone, that we would soon be able to work together to bring these two components into one outcome.Sara sent the new machine to Holly in Boras – Sara led had a series of webinars to help Holly build her own Hilo Machine in her studio. We hoped that with the new loom coming for the SST, Holly would be able to weave the dress using Hilo yarn – however, corona delayed the looms installation so we looked for other solutions. We still needed to test the yarn in the context of the complex woven structures Holly uses, so Sara used the TC2 loom in Berlin to sample parts of the dress design using her yarn. This enabled us to test the 3D woven form to yarn workflow and outcome. But we still needed to be able to weave a full-sized version of the dress. Located in the Netherlands, EE Exclusives are a decades-old family-run weaving mill with experiences weaving Holly’s complex 3D woven garments, and they agreed to weave a full-size sample of the H||H dress. Working remotely with EE Exclusives weave designer, Milou Voorwinden, we translated the files designed for the loom in Sweden for the looms in the Netherlands. Using wool yarn to mimic the wool Hilo use, Milou sampled the complex structures and over whatsapp Holly and Milou solved any issues that came up until at last, we could weave the final, full-size 3D woven sample. EE Exclusives sent Holly the woven panels that have the textile-dress embedded in them, and then the process of forming could begin. Three dresses are woven across the full width of the loom. So Holly began by separating the textile into the three panels that make three dresses. Then the layers areseparated from each other at the sleeve and the flounce. The sleeve expands out from the shoulder and the flounce drops down, revealing the yarns that hold the structure together. The two straight side seams are sewn and then our model Sasha can put it on.

THE COLLABORATION:

The collaboration had many different shapes and connections – between Studio Hilo and Holly, between us and the weaving mill, and with our mentor/coach. The benefits of collaboration between Studio and Holly Mcquillan have been that we each bring different strengths and knowledge to the project and together we could build on the space between. Without us seeing the value in combining our respective knowledge in spinning and whole garment weaving, this project would never have got off the ground. This was the whole point of the project, and really the whole point of Worth. Our collaboration with the weaving mill meant that despite the covid pandemic we could still develop full-scale prototypes and test the complex bindings we planned to use with the Hilo Yarn. They were always engaged with the project, and we hope learned a lot from the process also. Through the worth project, we had such great support from our coach – not only in a research and development context but also from business perspectives. Our coach had just the right type of knowledge in the space of textile innovation and was able to help us understand the value of our project wasn’t in the physical product for sale, but the knowledge we hold in the innovative process. This insight has enabled us to develop our collaboration through Critical Textile Topologies – a collective we founded of likeminded design researchers – so we can market our collective knowledge to transform the industry.

THE FUTURE:

The H||H dress is proof of concept of our process and workflow. This design and manufacturing approach can revolutionise how we make 3D woven textile-based form, eliminating much of the manual labour currently required and enabling zero waste production to be localised to Europe. In founding Critical Textile Topologies we have the knowledge to combine all the steps from fibre to spinning, weaving, forming and beyond for the development of circular approaches to transform the industry. We hope that together we can provide to companies wanting to work in innovative spaces in the fashion and textile industries with a talented pool of researchers and designers to draw from. We have adeep understanding of both the industry – at all stages of the supply chain, and the understanding of the kind of deep research, innovation and creativity are needed to visualise and help companies manifest the kinds of futures they want, and we all need.

THE MESSAGE:

We need to work together to find ways of seeing what is already there, or undiscovered space, to transform the fashion and textile industries.

 

PARTNERSHIP PROJECTS

The vase

The vase

Lumimóza

Lumimóza

3D metal panels

3D metal panels

Thinking Woman’s Chair

Thinking Woman’s Chair

Aeras-x Seat for Drone Taxis

Aeras-x Seat for Drone Taxis

The Vegan Sheep

The Vegan Sheep

Loom-State

Loom-State

Common Sands 2.0

Common Sands 2.0

Maretech

Maretech

Minois

Minois

STEM a garment production brand

STEM a garment production brand

Storytelling Garment Project

Storytelling Garment Project

Mapu Preto

Mapu Preto

Minta

Minta

NO/thing

NO/thing

Modifiable Vegan Bag Collection

Modifiable Vegan Bag Collection

In the Circle

In the Circle

Clotho

Clotho

Make Your Bed

Make Your Bed

Vibro-Tactile Textiles

Vibro-Tactile Textiles

LÈBIU – let’s CORK it

LÈBIU – let’s CORK it

WeAr Design

WeAr Design

Freskos

Freskos

ALMA

ALMA

Bubble Façade

Bubble Façade

Crossing Parallels

Crossing Parallels

EnaOna

EnaOna

SEISMIC GARMENT

SEISMIC GARMENT

Rethinking the Bra

Rethinking the Bra

Kinematic handbag by RMATURA

Kinematic handbag by RMATURA

Nova Underwear

Nova Underwear

BioChromatic

BioChromatic

Dimmenso

Dimmenso

Beaggie

Beaggie

Ignorance is Bliss Carpet Collection

Ignorance is Bliss Carpet Collection

WE ARE NOT IN THIS ALONE

WE ARE NOT IN THIS ALONE

H|H

H|H

Vibrant-barrier-free glassware collection

Vibrant-barrier-free glassware collection

Edge Chair

Edge Chair

Marbled Salts

Marbled Salts

Moseanic

Moseanic

Kombucha TSUGI

Kombucha TSUGI

LiLO

LiLO

The Eastern Side of Riviera

The Eastern Side of Riviera

Future Wardrobe

Future Wardrobe

Ventri

Ventri

FreyZein

FreyZein

SILENCIO

SILENCIO

Re-Print Ceramics

Re-Print Ceramics

Vivid

Vivid

A Phyne Bomber Jacket

A Phyne Bomber Jacket

Burning For

Burning For

Circular workwear collection

Circular workwear collection

Recontile

Recontile

Fashion Colada

Fashion Colada

SCALA

SCALA

New Matters

New Matters

Not 2 Forget

Not 2 Forget

Agogic – Be prepared for more

Agogic – Be prepared for more

SMARTCOAT with ETHICS

SMARTCOAT with ETHICS

Mocha Split

Mocha Split

Reframd

Reframd

Zerobarracento

Zerobarracento

ALLCA Disruptive Rugs

ALLCA Disruptive Rugs

Wearable Play

Wearable Play

Wear-Abouts Baltic Sea

Wear-Abouts Baltic Sea

Gelatex x NO/AN

Gelatex x NO/AN

Luxury Bag Collection

Luxury Bag Collection

Amalgama

Amalgama

TTorch

TTorch

From the ground

From the ground

Biolea

Biolea

Ultra

Ultra

Capsule coat project

Capsule coat project

Mayya x WORTH

Mayya x WORTH

The Space in Between

The Space in Between

Rustic Wool Robotuft

Rustic Wool Robotuft

Cartiera & SwIdeas present: Change!

Cartiera & SwIdeas present: Change!

Fish_Fish

Fish_Fish

Common Sands

Common Sands

UCQC Inclusive

UCQC Inclusive

Gabriella Veszpremi X Inpelsa

Gabriella Veszpremi X Inpelsa

Mowo

Mowo

i-Morfé

i-Morfé

Iguaneye

Iguaneye

Ruumy

Ruumy

Fugazi Fugazi

Fugazi Fugazi

Serisole

Serisole

Hi-LAMP

Hi-LAMP

Lucid

Lucid

Senss

Senss

Walkytalkies

Walkytalkies

Sole sustainability

Sole sustainability

A Warm, Light, Luxurious, Sustainable Cloak

A Warm, Light, Luxurious, Sustainable Cloak

Spell My Name

Spell My Name

The “Bib” chair

The “Bib” chair

Materia Bruta

Materia Bruta

Planned Space Pooling

Planned Space Pooling

3D knitwear on demand

3D knitwear on demand

Lit Lace Interface

Lit Lace Interface

iluTex

iluTex

Sukka 

Sukka 

PineSkins Soft Wall Tiles

PineSkins Soft Wall Tiles

Unmoist Raincoat

Unmoist Raincoat

IOT Jacket & Robot

IOT Jacket & Robot

Stars Collection

Stars Collection

Words that shimmer

Words that shimmer

Persona

Persona

PULSAR

PULSAR

Identity 560

Identity 560

Øjenfryd

Øjenfryd

The Ghost Bag

The Ghost Bag

Diluci bags

Diluci bags

M2M furniture (Made 2 Measure Furniture)

M2M furniture (Made 2 Measure Furniture)

Myhand Prosthetic Socket

Myhand Prosthetic Socket

Oceanwear

Oceanwear

t-Studio – 3D fashion design network

t-Studio – 3D fashion design network

Curve

Curve

Multifunctional Textiles

Multifunctional Textiles

Fashion Designing in an Inclusive World

Fashion Designing in an Inclusive World

‘Parameter’ Table

‘Parameter’ Table

Occay

Occay

KICS

KICS

ERGOVI – healthy multiposture chair

ERGOVI – healthy multiposture chair

PreemieCme

PreemieCme

Circular Bags

Circular Bags

Clayer

Clayer

Lulu V2

Lulu V2

Fishskinlab

Fishskinlab

Dynaback

Dynaback

Esther Hates PVC

Esther Hates PVC

Gardin

Gardin

Foldable High Heels

Foldable High Heels

Sustainable Acoustic Panels

Sustainable Acoustic Panels

Edbora Collection

Edbora Collection

Smart Heated Vest

Smart Heated Vest

ACDL Artisan Chausseur Design Lab

ACDL Artisan Chausseur Design Lab

Smart Life Jacket In Watersport

Smart Life Jacket In Watersport

Fragments Garments

Fragments Garments

Hollow: A Lie Story

Hollow: A Lie Story

FWN: Family Wear Nature

FWN: Family Wear Nature

Himaero “The Emotional Jewel”

Himaero “The Emotional Jewel”

Spellbound

Spellbound

Wear Pure

Wear Pure

Connextyle

Connextyle

Unlimited in 1

Unlimited in 1

Paramatrix

Paramatrix

Feel More Knitwear

Feel More Knitwear

Skarabeos 2

Skarabeos 2

Twill

Twill

Fashionable Wearable Camera Accessory

Fashionable Wearable Camera Accessory

‘Margarete’ – Cork Task Chair

‘Margarete’ – Cork Task Chair