AMALGAMAARTISANAL AND INNOVATIVE PRINTING COAT
Artistic piece that looks like one garment but it is composed by 9 differents garments. When you dissamble the main piece it turns into a small collection of individual garments.
Leandro Cano SL (Spain)
LEANDRO CANO SL is a brand of womenswear that works with craftsmen to bring to life innovative designs. The company has close ties with art, culture, environmental sustainability and innovation. Leandro Cano has won many awards during his career: 2012 Designer for Tomorrow award; 2014 Samsung Innovation Project; 2016/17 Spanish representative in the International Woolmark Prise in Milan and 2018/19 Who’s On Next Vogue 2017 in Hong Kong.
MASTELAS textile and patchwork trade. The Patchwork school teaches and develops ideas and projects with the help of craftswomen who transmit traditional techniques from generation to generation to keep tradition alive.
LABEL-GRAINE was born from a dream and inspired by the work of a photo-engraver (Michel Graveur). Valtex Group is a family industry, which has set its mark on the textile printing world. The company diversified over time and now seeks to pass on the excellence of know-how and innovative capacity it has successfully managed to acquire and develop. With more than 35 years’ experience, Valtex Group opens its doors in order to share its skills and join with anyone interested in collaboration projects. The company gets its drive and strength from its human values and team spirit.
Well, the idea of participating in WPP was of my business partner Ana. She was thinking in to ﬁnd partners out of Spain, so she founds at WPP the perfect occasion. The diﬃcult was in introduce the artisanal part in an innovate project.
When we start to think about the idea, i had clear that i wanted a winter garment. This is because the main prototype is a big coat. The print (an illustration of a women-horse in the middle of a forest) was because i was dreaming with a magical world full of people and animal in an oneiric sense, so, with an artist, i could materialize my dream. It took several months to develop my idea.
THE BIRTH OF THE PROJECT:
Our project has 3 main parts:
-Development of the print
-To Print the fabric
-Make the artisanal technique over the garment
It means that there are 2 artist involved, ﬁrst at all, the artist who had to sketch my dream in a paper, and the second, the artist who had to do in her technique the sketch in 3D. Several people building in a coat my dream…can you imagine…Transmit an idea is not easy, because you must tell every detail, and you both and the artist must materialize a dream in a garment. Communication between us was not easy sometimes. When the project progress, everything is ok, but sometimes when you can’t go ahead. come on…this is very diﬃcult. In my artistic creations, i always think out the box, and i need the same with my partners, so that, i guest that the most diﬃcult issue in our project has been create an artistic garment with diﬀerent artists.
THE CREATIVE PROCESS:
This question is almost answered in the question before. Process is the same that a supply chain, i mean, ﬁrst i need the illustration for printing fabric. Label Graine could not work without the ﬁnal illustration, and without printed fabric we couldn’t sewing the coat, and therefore, Mas Telas couldn’t made her artisanal technique over the coat. In terms of creativity, artists would create what I had in my mind, or how i was expecting the ﬁnal work…so, it involves a lot of changes, a lot of discussions and time, artistic projects needs time, and sometimes schedule doesn’t permit it. Technically, Mas Telas had the main problem, because she had to reproduce a sketch in a technique quite like patchwork, it wasn’t easy. At the beginning we thought to reproduce the sketch in color, but it was so complicate because of the Pantone, so, at the end, we decided to do that in black and white.
Collaborations has been great, because Label Graine has the last technology in print fabrics and Mas Telas are an incredibly special artist. Artistic projects are always diﬃcult, but 3 brains thinking at the same time is better than 1. In our case, Label Grain suggested better fabric for print, and MAs Telas suggested to do their technique in black and white. Sometimes if you work alone, you only see 1 way, and maybe you choose the most diﬃcult one.
Before the COVID i saw the future clear. I mean…i do an artistic garment and taking the inspiration of the artistic garment, i do wearables garment, so, in this way, you can see very clear the sense of an artistic inspiration. After COVID, rules in fashion are going to change. Nobody knows now, what is going to happen with the traditional fashion model industry. Maybe, now, after this situation, artisanal work has more sense than before. In another hand, investment in fashion is needed all the time. before selling, you need to create stock. You pay before the money for the stock. This is the main risk of fashion model. Maybe now, pre-order and wait for a garment is the new future in fashion, because after this crisis, lot of small fashion companies as mine will be hurt.
After this experience, i think that collaborations are great…but not all kind of collaborations or with everybody…you have to ﬁnd people like you, for sharing experience, know-how, happiness and frustrations. I’m not going to lie, it’s not easy to collaborate, but if you ﬁnd the right one, everything is easier. Sharing means that you can grow up more than by yourself. You can’t be expert in everything, so, ﬁnd the right people and go on for it!!! If you want to discover all my universe, ﬁnd us at: